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Best of Tommy Tom / Couture 2015

As an addition to my latest couture feed this morning I have decided to flick through selection of Tommy Ton’s best street fashion moments and this is what I have found. Well, actually I have found quite a lot of really cool styling ideas and knowing their game fashionistas, however those three images struck me the most. Not sure if it had something to do with the upheaval regarding not being afraid to be different movement, or there was some (unnoticed by me) reference to the Miu Miu show, one is certain; Tommy Ton has captured the real fashion statement. The street style just brought out its ‘crazy’ and for the moment in its freshness and daringness it completely outshined the same old polished fashionistas. This fashion moment feels like a breath of a fresh air, or actually an old one; 80’s party scene perhaps? Anyhow, those three photos remind us what fashion week should be really about. Celebration of dressing up and having the hell lot of fun by doing it. Shamelessly peacocking your fabulous self and parting like there is no tomorrow, and there is just it: power to the people and no tags attached... 

Backstage Couture

Couture fashion shows for the year 2015 are in the full swing. This is by far my favorite backstage snapshot of this season. Very real, very ‘working girl’ and somehow very glam in its own humorous way.

Top catwalk stories of SS15

IN THE LAND OF FRINGE AND TESLE

Fringing was more then welcomed on the S/S 15 catwalks. Designers seemed to embrace it in full and presented it in various lengths and density. Usually placed where the trimming should initially be; it adorned the hems and cuffs of various garments, however in some cases (Thakoon for example) fringing was scattered along the surface of the frocks creating a playful effect.

PATCHWORK STORY

Although it appeared to only by incorporated by the maverick fashion houses (Prada or Martin Maison Margiela), the 'patchwork story' is my favorite emerging trend. Wildly eclectic and slightly of balance; those could be the words to describe it. Each garment seemed to have a tale of its own, and brought into mind the make and mend effect. Taking into the account the growing popularity of recycle and do it yourself trend, I like to think that it has a strong chances during upcoming high street S/S 15 season.

IN THE NET

Fully embraced by House of Balenciaga, net like textures seemed to be the next step in a S/S favorite sheer effect. Moving away from sensual into more high-tech feel, models paraded the variety of crochet, laser cut or even chain mail like fabrics and finishes. Sometimes they came embroidered (Valentino), sometimes they were used to link other fabrics together (Chloe). On occasion they were featured on its own but often were paired up with figure hugging under layers.

WATER COLORED

The key print during most recent Chanel show, watercolor is destined to stardom. It creates a great mood for a romantic summer and hopefully it will find its way into the high street stores. Washed down and stained effect was not the only, but definitely one of the key prints during the latest fashion week season. Large and bold it was used in a variety of pieces from jackets and accessories to flowy chiffon dresses.

FW favorite

Menswear 2015 (Favorites)

 

 

 

Phillip Lim

 

 

 

Dries Van Noten

 

 

 

Louis Vuitton

Menswear S/S 2015

My favorite look from S/S 2015 menswear shows is by Maison Martin Margiela.

Chanel (Resort 2015)

 

 

 

My favorite show of this year's Resort is undoubtedly Chanel. I have to say that this choice of mine has proven to be surprising and confusing for both myself and most of my friends. As a keen textile lover I have been religiously following every Chanel show, and have to admit that there were always few looks and many more textiles that I would particularly like, or even love. However the overall hand of Mr. Lagerfeld has never particularly appealed to me. As a result, I have always tried to understand the public's fascination with Chanel. I agree that it is very innovative (especially regarding textiles), it is always changing (the differences between Resort 2015 for example and Fall 2014 were remarkable), but in the same time it often appears unfaltering and (here comes the blasphemy)... a bit tacky.

This year was different. I am not too sure why. Maybe it is me maturing enough to finally understand the phenomena of Mr Lagerfeld, maybe it is a move to the big city or maybe the fact that I used to be obsessed with dressing up like a princess up to an age of about seven. Ladies and gentlemen, I was absolutely swept away: the show was beautiful, sensual and truly magical.

There was shimmer, there was sheerness and there were always reliable tweeds. Models wore tunics paired with pants, cardigans or short jackets. Texture was rich and adorned with decorative fringing or beading. Print was also present: defined and full of color that even Zandra Rhodes could be jealous of. It featured flowery motifs which floated gently on the chiffon dresses and floor-length tunics. This year's collection was presented in Dubai and carried strong middle eastern references. As a consequence the audience could admire the fair amount of harem styled shoes, the most outrageous (in volume) harem pants and plentiful of crescent motifs. The last one could be spotted in bracelets, necklaces, hair accessories and even hem of a jacket.

 

This year hair and make up artists have decided on the very feminine, Sherezada inspired look. Models wore either loose, perfectly smooth hair or paraded a main of soft curls. In both cases the hair accessories were the crucial element of the styling, silver pins were safely secured on the top of the heads or in other cases the chains of Chanel pearls cascaded from the hair bands onto the models' temples. Skin was flawless with gentle touch of blush on the lips, brow was natural and there was a strong focus on the eyes. Smoky, almost sixties like eye was enhanced at the top and bottom by the sets of fake lashes. The smudge of gold in the inner corner of the eye had added the richness and intensity to the gaze.

This year Mr Lagerfeld's tale felt dreamy and romantic. It projected the nostalgia about the forgotten time were femininity was equal with natural grace and beauty, and it brought the memory of the place where any girl can become a princess.

In retrospect, I have to admit that although Resort 2015 was absolutely beautiful, Chanel's aesthetics did not manage to escape it's usual weaknesses: yes, the selection was not functional at times, yes, it did feel slightly too costumy and yes, maybe it did feel a bit tacky. But this time it was my kind of tacky, so I guess that I have succumbed to Mr. Lagerfeld's spell after all.

Resort 2015 (Favorites)

 

 

Chloé

For quite a while now I find myself to be a big fan of Chloe. The relaxed approach and sensual take on their resort collections, seems to always perfectly capture what the holiday season should be all about. There was quite a bit of variety within this line; from bold print, over-sized outerwear to the plentiful of texture. My personal favorites were two tone dresses which combined drape and straight cut, and featured above the camel sleeveless dress with a laced detail at the front (simple yet very clever solutions to enhance the silhouette). Overall feel of the collection appears to be heavier then the last season; with less focus on the romance and more on the urban chick. The colors are more defined, print is way bolder and apart from few evening pieces, fabrics selection seems to be more substantial (with some jumpers and outerwear included). Still this years resort selection well represents what Chloe is all about; comfort and femininity at its best.

 

 

Mary Katrantzou

Couple of days before the beginning of this years A/W Fashion Week, I have discussed Mary Katrantzou's label with a good friend of mine. She generally was not a fan, I initially was but have admitted that for the last few seasons Katrantzou's brand seemed to be loosing it's cool.
I remember first hearing about Mary when she made a headlines with her graduate collection: the digitally printed jewelry on the simple line dresses, I have found myself to be in an awe of the simplicity and absolute genius of this concept. That was a great starting point and throughout the years it went only larger, bolder and crazier. Richness of color and intricate real life like print became the Katrantzou's signature style. We could admire the dresses featuring, the interiors, postal stamps, tea spoons, trees, flowers, landscapes, old china and many, many more. 
However the question arises where do you stop? When too much much is just simply not good enough any more? For the last few seasons I have got the feeling that creative mind of Katrantzou seemed to be slowly spinning out of control and even more so, running out of ideas (abstract smudges and flower fields for example). For me the breaking point was S/S 2013 show, when models paraded on the catwalk wearing clothing featuring printed shoes. Yes, shoes! By that I mean, soles, laces, eyelets even top stitching. As much as it can seem like a good idea, for me personally it was not: there is something seriously contradictory between tight fitting mini dress and brown gentleman-style loafers. Not to mention lack of balance and harmony within the collection. 
I have to say that this was my least favorite of Katrantzou's collections, and it looks like I was not singled out in my opinion, because the S/S 2013 has proven to be a turning point for the label. 

This year's resort collection continues to explore the new approach to the Katrantzou's signature style. The line up consisted mainly of tailored and figure hugging pieces, like high waisted skirts, slim fit trousers and cropped jackets. This time the designer has chosen the simple cut and used it as a canvas for the intricate print and rich texture. The theme of the season was calligraphy, which came in the form of embellishment and throughout the show has grown bolder and more defined. Pastels were dominant, stronger hues came in the form of print but also has overtaken some of the pieces. My favorite elements of the Resort were sheerness and rich embroidery. The needle work was used to create the calligraphy but also the entire landscapes which have decorated some of the dresses. Collection was opulent and had an 'eye candy' quality to it, very much in line with what Katrantzou's house is all about.  The highlight of this season was the baby pink, dress with a letter 'K', constructed by the combination of an embellishment and the difference in sleeve's color. It was fun, simple and clever and most of all it incorporated all these  key points into a strong branding statement. The Resort 2014 has shown the house of Katrantzou as a creative hub with deep understanding of it's own values but also willingness to explore and learn. The key trademarks of the great designers out there.   

 

 

Fendi

Even though I consider Fendi as one of those brands, which has its better and worse moments, I can never deny it's creativity. This year's resort delivers on many levels, especially on the aesthetic and commercial one.
A-line seemed to be a key silhouette of this season and it came in many forms; form below the knee coats, dresses , skirts to the medium cuff length trousers. Patchwork leather jackets and fur coat were the true highlights. On the black and white pieces, Graffiti like calligraphy spelled 'Fendi', and in some places it appeared to be sticking out of the fabric. Print was crucial element of this collection. It has featured the range of handwriting; from bold abstracts throughout the 3D polka dots effect to finally hand painted orchids. It was strategically placed on the monochrome surface and it was incorporated into the balance of the entire silhouette. Another look worth mentioning were dresses; some entirely, some partially pleated, this fabric manipulation has highlighted the movement and created the feeling of preppie like aesthetic.