My favorite show of this year's Resort is undoubtedly Chanel. I have to say that this choice of mine has proven to be surprising and confusing for both myself and most of my friends. As a keen textile lover I have been religiously following every Chanel show, and have to admit that there were always few looks and many more textiles that I would particularly like, or even love. However the overall hand of Mr. Lagerfeld has never particularly appealed to me. As a result, I have always tried to understand the public's fascination with Chanel. I agree that it is very innovative (especially regarding textiles), it is always changing (the differences between Resort 2015 for example and Fall 2014 were remarkable), but in the same time it often appears unfaltering and (here comes the blasphemy)... a bit tacky.
This year was different. I am not too sure why. Maybe it is me maturing enough to finally understand the phenomena of Mr Lagerfeld, maybe it is a move to the big city or maybe the fact that I used to be obsessed with dressing up like a princess up to an age of about seven. Ladies and gentlemen, I was absolutely swept away: the show was beautiful, sensual and truly magical.
There was shimmer, there was sheerness and there were always reliable tweeds. Models wore tunics paired with pants, cardigans or short jackets. Texture was rich and adorned with decorative fringing or beading. Print was also present: defined and full of color that even Zandra Rhodes could be jealous of. It featured flowery motifs which floated gently on the chiffon dresses and floor-length tunics. This year's collection was presented in Dubai and carried strong middle eastern references. As a consequence the audience could admire the fair amount of harem styled shoes, the most outrageous (in volume) harem pants and plentiful of crescent motifs. The last one could be spotted in bracelets, necklaces, hair accessories and even hem of a jacket.
This year hair and make up artists have decided on the very feminine, Sherezada inspired look. Models wore either loose, perfectly smooth hair or paraded a main of soft curls. In both cases the hair accessories were the crucial element of the styling, silver pins were safely secured on the top of the heads or in other cases the chains of Chanel pearls cascaded from the hair bands onto the models' temples. Skin was flawless with gentle touch of blush on the lips, brow was natural and there was a strong focus on the eyes. Smoky, almost sixties like eye was enhanced at the top and bottom by the sets of fake lashes. The smudge of gold in the inner corner of the eye had added the richness and intensity to the gaze.
This year Mr Lagerfeld's tale felt dreamy and romantic. It projected the nostalgia about the forgotten time were femininity was equal with natural grace and beauty, and it brought the memory of the place where any girl can become a princess.
In retrospect, I have to admit that although Resort 2015 was absolutely beautiful, Chanel's aesthetics did not manage to escape it's usual weaknesses: yes, the selection was not functional at times, yes, it did feel slightly too costumy and yes, maybe it did feel a bit tacky. But this time it was my kind of tacky, so I guess that I have succumbed to Mr. Lagerfeld's spell after all.
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